The Kumbh Mela, which historically has received little press in the
West, takes place every four years, and gains special significance every
12. This year, 2013, will be that 12th year—called the Purna
(―complete‖) Kumbh and officials expect somewhere between 30 million and
60 million ascetics and pilgrims to travel to holy sites to bathe. It
is believed that during this auspicious astrological moment, the waters
of the Ganges have the ability to wash away layer upon layer of karmic
debt. Some will splash and play in the water like ecstatic children,
living on the river bank for a month, while others will perform the
perfunctory dip and be on their way. Behind the pilgrims is another
group —one slightly less inclined to enter the murky ganges—who will
travel thousands of miles by plane, train and autorickshaw for a very
different reason: To answer the question, ―How on earth is an event of
this size possible?‖ To fully grapple with this
question, the scale of the Kumbh needs to be put in perspective.
Imagine the entire population of Shanghai—about 23 million—camping on a
4×8 kilometer field. Add to that mass of humanity every last man, woman
and child in New York City and you’re getting closer to the Kumbh’s
expected attendance. But still not quite there. The area of the mela is
also on the rise: from 1,495.31 hectare and 11 sectors in 2001 to
1936.56 hectare and 14 sectors in 2013. That’s about 4,784 acres of land
– about the size of Madrid’s famous Casa de Campo park. For hundreds of
years, the size of the Kumbh has been of interest primarily to bathing
pilgrims and local officials trying to maintain order. But this year it
caught the attention of Harvard University, which saw the Kumbh Mela as a
unique opportunity to study the formation and inner-workings of a
pop-up mega city. Where recently there was nothing but a barren flood
plain there will soon be a thriving
―city‖ complete with hospitals, sanitation systems, markets and police.
The Kumbh has always operated in this capacity, but for a variety of
reasons, the 2013 festival represents a significant shift towards seeing
the festival as a seminal academic learning environment.